After a luxurious afternoon of High Tea at the Pierre, Gerrie and I walked the 40-some blocks, to work up an appetite of course, to Gramercy Taven window shopping along the way. The Country Music Awards were the next night so in swanky store after swanky store, parties with people in big hats and bright eye shadow were getting under way. We did see some great shoes though.
I'd never been to Gramercy Tavern so I was stunned when we walked in from the cold night air. I felt like I'd just entered a very luxurious mountain lodge, one with a roaring fire in a huge stone fireplace and skiers apres-skiing. The most delicious smells from their open wood-burning oven and grill wafted throughout the restaurant and enveloped you in warm convivialité. All I needed was a pillow and blanket to be more relaxed and comfortable.
Our server, Remington or Preston, or some such name, was very congenial, though he talked a bit the way those people who pronounce the ski town Gstaad (sh-tod) with clenched teeth and was a tad formal (read: affected), as though he should really be serving at per se rather than pandering to the bourgeois. That aside, a very fun evening with a good friend and food that was creative but not too over the top and unmistakably delicious. I didn't want to leave which I guess is the ultimate compliment.
We started with an amuse-bouche of celeriac and spinach purée (at top) and a 2002 Unti Syrah that Remington/Preston(?) recommended. It "needed to breathe", as Gerrie diplomatically critiqued upon tasting. Though as the night went on it did indeed mellow and melded smoothly with our dishes. I got a little carried away with the color adjustments hence the deep purple hue... ;-)
I selected the Autumn Tasting Menu which began with a Torchon (slice, but literally it means towel) of Foie Gras with Quince, Hazelnuts and Mint. Whenever I can, I order foie gras, especially since I will soon be illegal in California, thank you Ah-nold.
Langostino with Artichokes, and Autumn Truffles followed and this was delicious. The broth was foamy, light and the langostino was succulent, not dry or overcooked at all the way so many shrimp are served. I love slicing chives, for some odd reason. I loved the perfect tiny circles they formed and the way they looked sprinkled on a dish. It's the little things.....
Sea Bass with Swiss Chard, Chanterelles, Lemon and Cardamom I {HEART} Sea Bass and this was no exception and though the foam is a bit overplayed, like Brittany Spears on AM radio, I do love the little chives. The chanterelles were chewy, earthy - a great combination with the swisschard and lemon.
Bacon with Quince and Mustard Seed. To be honest I was a bit scared of this at first. It appeared fatty and odd. But one bite and I was converted. The sweet and savory mustard-quince sauce complimented the tender, moist bacon.
Rack of Lamb with Savoy Cabbage, Cauliflower and Dates. Like foie gras, I love lamb and order it whenever possible. Cooked perfectly pink, paired with seared cauliflower and sweet pureed dates in a "light" cauliflower-cream sauce, a delicious combination.
Chocolate Tasting Dessert Chocolate gelato on a crumbled chocolate cookie, a chocolate mousse cake and a chocolate tart. Chocolate three ways - how can you go wrong? My favorite way to eat dessert, a sampling, a bite or two of each, rather than an enormous slice of thick chocolate decadence of which one can only eat one or two bites before you want to assume the fetal position under the table. But I digress...
Gerrie selected the VegetableTastingMenu so we could try a little of each. She started with the very visually stunning Tapioca with Basil Oil topped with a Shortbread Cookie and a Passion Fruit Sorbet Quenelle. I love passion fruit anything and the basil oil swirled with the tapioca and the shortbread cookie was a melange of tastes and textures from the creamy tapioca to the crunchy cookie to the cold ice cream and back to the tepid tapioca.
Eggplant Napoleon with Piquillo Peppers and Lemon
Penne with Savoy Cabbage, Cranberry Beans, Autumn Truffle and Parmesan Pasta and truffles in a truffle-parmesan-cream sauce. Stick a fork in me, I'm done! Earthy truffles and the tangy parmesan sauce with the textures of beans and pasta was incredible. Yes, I could have bathed in it.
Roasted Beets with Wax Beans, Garlic Chips and Chervil I know some of you out there hate beets, I know, I used to be one of you, but anymore! Years ago I attended a political fundraiser catered by Alice Waters' Edible Schoolyard and the starter was a beet salad of a rainbow of sliced beets in a raspberry vinaigrette. At first I made a face but oohs and aaahs and ohhhs around me convinced me to take that first bite. That was all it took. The fat lady sang. I was a beet lover.
Mushroom Tart Tatin with Mushroom Foam and Pickled Mushrooms I didn't try this but Gerrie said the mushroom tart was delicious, earthy, wonderfully caramelized, crispy pastry but the foam was too much and the pickled mushrooms too strong.
Raspberry Tasting Dessert A raspberry napolen paired with a raspberry pastry cream cannoli in a tuile with fresh raspberries. A sweet, light, refreshing way to end a perfect evening.
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Gramercy Tavern
42 East 20th Street
New York, NY 10003
212 477 0777
www.gramercytavern.com






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