Cucina Testa Rossa

Fish Art at Luxembourg Garden

This is an actual picture taken of a clown fish (aka Nemo) swimming through a sea anenomae.

One of the many things I appreciate so much about this wonderful city is the constant presence of art and culture, bringing it to the people and making it accesible to everyone, not just those that can afford it. At Luxembourg Garden, for as long as I've been here, there has been a photography exhibit along the north east corner of the gates from the main entrance on blvd St Michel to the entrance to the Senat or French government. Every exhibit is unique and extraordinary, leaving pedestrians spellbound by their beauty. This most recent exhibit looks more like a cross between Finding Nemo and a sci-fi horror movie with the most spectacular and some of the most horrifying creatures under the sea. Enjoy...

La Vie dans un Bateau d'Hommard ~ Life on a Lobster Boat

My all-time most favorite picture ever. I call it Ave Maria, or the singing bass.

My second stage (stazh) or internship in France was cooking on a lobster boat in a military port town in Brittany, the northwest corner of France that juts out into the Atlantic ocean. The boat was grounded at one end of a beautiful beach, Plage du Moulin Blanc, though I never saw any white windmills, with the marina or Port de la Plaisance on the other side.


--Ma Petite Folie, a lobster boat on Plage du Moulin Blanc

I originally thought I'd be cooking at another restaurant, La Fleur de Sel, a more upscale, fine dining restaurant rather than this beast of a boat. I was initially very disappointed but within a few days I came to love that bateau aptly named Ma Petite Folie - my little madness - and cherished my time there. I learned all about fish and every day I scaled, gutted, filleted, skinned and cleaned fish. I was up to my elbows in fish guts and my hands soon looked like a litter of kittens had used them as scratching posts.


--Stingray or skate, raie in French

I didn't start out cutting up fish but rather vegetables. The first week I chopped and chopped and chopped carrots, fennel and leeks, over and over and over. I was dying to gets my hands on the fish but that took some proving to do. I was scrolling through some old emails I sent home when I was working on the lobster boat and came across this entry....


--Yours truly cutting up fish! A far cry from my cube in the valley looking out on the Target parking lot.

"Bonjour mes amis! A quick story I am dying to share with y'all about my day today. It's just so cool and I want to shout it from the rooftops but that would no doubt arouse the gendarmes (local police) here so sending via email will have to suffice.


--Carralet. Their bright orange spots are so vibrant and a dramatic contrast to their stark white bellies.

TODAY WAS A GREAT DAY! Yann the sous-chef let me cut up fish today! I cut a few up for the first time the other day and as I was cutting (or more like butchering) the first fish, Yann walked by and said "Mon dieu (my god)!" and not in a good way. So he patiently showed me how to do it and I had to ask him a few more times to show me. I got through it but it was painful for all of us, especially the fish! I figured any career opportunities at Fisherman's Wharf were now out the window, or porthole as the case may be.

--Dorade. We used this for carpaccio drizzled with a little lemon olive oil.

So this morning I was once again chopping carrots and Yann was next to me filleting fish. I asked him if I could help him and he said "maybe tomorrow, we're very busy". I politely replied, "I can't learn it if I never do it. I know I'm slow but I'll never get fast if I never get the opportunity to practice." And he replied, "You're right, you're right. Ok here!" and he dumped about twenty Dorade into the sink and said "Go ahead!" YEAH! I cut them up, packed them in ice and put them in the walk-in. It took me a while but I loved it! It was gross and slimy, as they weren't gutted but I loved it! He scraped the scales off and I filleted them! A very cool day!!!


--Lieu, or pollack in English

Tonight we arrived at 6pm and Yann was in a cranky mood. He barked, "Laura, you cut up the fish tonight." I jumped up, "Merci!" He said, "No merci (Don't thank me!). I need twenty Lieu and four Barbue by 7pm" and he walked away scowling. I asked him where they were and he pointed to the walk-in. I asked him to show me what they look like and he rolled his eyes, stomped over to the walk-in, pulled out the fish, and threw them into the sink with disgust. I'm thinking, "Oh great (not really what I said), he's already annoyed with me and there is no way I'm going to finish all these fish in less than an hour! Damn (also not really what I said)!

--John Dory, or St Pierre in French.

So I started cutting them one at a time, methodically, patiently, as quickly as possible, not daring to look at my watch. I cut the last fish, cleaned my station, and only then did I look at my watch. 6:55pm! Yann walked by and said, looking very surprised, "Excellent, Laura (ex-say-LONT lo-RAH)!" I WAS SO EXCITED! I DID IT! 🙂 I couldn't believe it! I cranked through all those fish! Granted, it wasn't the best fillet job ever done but it was passable and I got the job done! I was so proud of myself! I asked Yann if he didn't think I could do it. He replied very seriously, "No, of course I thought you could do it." I laughed, "Well that's good because I didn't think I could do it!" We had a good chuckle and the rest of the night I walked a few feet off the ground. When I left, Yann winked, "Laura, tomorrow, you and me, we cut up fish." YEAH! I proved myself! Finally! What a great feeling! I could finally exhale.

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This is another fantastic recipe from my flatmate, John. This is perfect for a hot summer day when you are craving protein but can't bare the thought of eating something hot. I usually make it early in the morning before it gets too hot out, then I can enjoy it for lunch or dinner that evening.

Saumon Froid au Basilic - Chilled Basil Salmon

• 4 pieces salmon, approx 125 to 150 grams (4-5 oz) each
• 4 tbsp butter
• 1-2 cups dry white wine, depending on size of pan
• 1 lemon, thinly sliced
• 4 tbsp dry basil or 1/4 cup chopped fresh basil
• 1 cup heavy cream

1. Heat the oven to 400F/200C/6.
2. Butter the pan with 1-2 tbsp and coat with a layer of dried or fresh chopped basil
3. Lay out salmon on top of the basil
4. Add wine to 2/3 up the side of the salmon
5. Top with salt and pepper, basil, lemon slices
6. Poach for 10 minutes
7. Remove the salmon to another plate, cover with plastic wrap and chill
8. Save 1/4 cup of the liquid in a small sauce pan
9. Add a lot of basil (1 tbsp/person) and 1-2 tbsp butter
10. Reduce slowly on low heat, stirring occasionally.
11. Increase heat to high, add heavy cream and whisk.
12. Turn down and reduce for 15 minutes.
13. Pour into a bowl and chill.
14. When the salmon and sauce have both chilled completely, plate the salmon. Stir the butter sauce until it's a creamy consistency and spoon a tablespoon over the salmon.

Bon Appetit!

La Vue de Ma Fenêtre ~ La Tour Eiffel

It's an embarassment of riches. First picnicing on the banks of the Seine as the sun sets over Notre Dame and now dining al fresco beneath the Eiffel Tower as it sparkles through the night. Another "pinch me" moment that many of us who are blessed to live here have a hard time believing. My friends Bob and Kendall, who I met my first week in Paris almost two years ago exactly, are moving back to the states. The farewell party was on the Champs de Mars beneath the Eiffel Tower and we were treated to a few spectacular light shows in between a tearful good bye. Adieu mes amis, a bientot.

La Vue de Ma Fenêtre ~ Lavande

Lavender stand, Quimper, Brittany ~ July, 2004

La Vue de Ma Fenêtre ~ Trocadero

Trocadero, Paris ~ July 2006

Cold Soup for Hot Days

updated picture from Jan 2021! 

Did I mention it's been hot here? Like really, REALLY hot. Like high 90s with high humidity hot. Like New York City in August stuck on the 3 express at rush hour hot. You get the picture. One way we try to beat the heat here is to picnic along the banks of the Seine.

Not that any rejuvenating cool ocean breezes come off that river, nor would you dare put a foot in (you might end up growing an extra toe!) but it's much more pleasant than sitting in a sweltering apartment or a crowded cafe with smoke lazily curling past your face. Our favorite spot is on the Port de la Tournelle where we are treated to gorgeous sunsets with Notre Dame and Pont de l'Archeveche as the backdrop. I know, pinch me.




I've been subsisting on watermelon and ice cream so I was so excited to receive my friend Gwen Walter's culinary newsletter, Pen and Fork, a week ago with a delicious recipe for Chilled Lemon Ginger Carrot Soup. This I could do! This recipe is from her cookbook, The Great Ranch Cookbook and since Gwen lives in Arizona, I figured she knew a thing or two about HOT.

Cooking the soup nearly killed me as I was loathe to even approach the stove much less turn it on. It was so hot (how hot was it?!) I didn't need to turn the burner on the melt the butter! But I persevered and the results were well worth it - a light, refreshing, lemony, cheerful soup perfect for these sweltering summer days.

Chilled Lemon Ginger Carrot Soup - serves 4

• 2 tablespoons butter
• 1/2 cup chopped onion
• 1 pound carrots, peeled, and chopped into 1/2" pieces
• 1 generous tablespoon fresh grated ginger
• 1/8 teaspoon cayenne
• zest of 1 lemon
• 2 (14 oz) cans low sodium chicken broth
• water as needed
• Juice of 1 lemon
• Salt to taste
• 2 teaspoons minced fresh chives (optional)
• 2 teaspoons chopped candied ginger (optional)
• 4 tablespoon tiny shrimp or lump crabmeat (optional)
  
  

1. Melt butter in a soup pot over medium heat. Stir in onions and cook, stirring occasionally until soft, about 2 minutes. Stir in carrots, ginger, cayenne and lemon zest.
   
   
   
   
2. Cook an addition 2 to 3 minutes, stirring frequently to coat carrots with the butter and evenly distribute the ginger, cayenne and zest.
   
   
   
   
3. Pour in chicken broth and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to a good simmer and cook until carrots are fork tender, about 20 minutes.
   
   
   
   
4. Puree soup with an immersion blender until smooth. If you don't have one, you can use a blender. (CAUTION: Hot liquid shoots straight up in a blender so do not fill more than half full, unless you have a Vita Mix with variable speed, which can handle the whole amount.) If it is too thick, add water in 1/4 cup increments until you have your desired consistency.
   
   
   
   
5. Whisk in lemon juice. Taste, and add salt if desired.
   
   
6. This step is optional. Here I strained the soup in a mesh strainer. This isn't necessary, but I was just in the mood and it was still a bit too thick for me on such a hot day.
   
   
   
   Note: Always use a metal spoon to push the soup through, never a wooden spoon because the mesh will catch on the spoon creating tiny splinters.
   
   
7. Chill soup in an ice bath and refrigerate until completely chilled. May be prepared the day before.
   
   
8. To serve, ladle about a cup of soup in chilled soup bowls or cups. Garnish with a sprinkling of chives and candied ginger, about a half teaspoon each for each serving. The garnishes are optional but really take it to an explosive flavor level.

Note: If you want to dress it up, top it with some chilled cooked shrimp or lump crabmeat, toasted pine nuts and pumpkin seeds.

Bon Appetit!

You can also read it here at KQED's Bay Area Bites!

Newsflash, it's HOT!

It's 11pm, still nearly 90F degrees, humid and not a breeze to be found. This afternoon on rue Mouffetard it was even hotter and I guess someone buying Berthillon ice cream will be used in tonight's evening news to demonstrate to the four people in this country with air conditioning just how hot it is. Another reason not to watch TV, but a charming scene none the less...

Summer on the Seine

Every Thursday evening in the summer, a group of us head down to the banks
of the Seine behind Notre Dame for a picnic. One of the brighter bateaux mouches
is cruising by ~ Paris, July 2006

La Vue de Ma Fenêtre ~ Mannequins at Palais Royal

Mannequins at Palais Royal, Paris ~ July 2006

Quiche au Saumon Fumée ~ Smoked Salmon Quiche

Smoked Salmon Quiche. I love it when my flatmates are in town because they do all the cooking and I do all the eating :-) This is a variation on Pierre's Parisian Quiche he made for lunch one day. It was actually breakfast but that's another story. It is based on the standard recipe with the eggs, crème fraîche base (no cheese) plus slices of smoked salmon, lemon and fresh ground pepper. Served with an arugula-tomato salad lightly splashed with raspberry vinaigrette, formidable!